Chateau Mouton Rothschild visit 2006

I visited Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux in August 2006. The tour started with a film describing a short history of the chateau. This lasted for about 15 minutes its seemed. We walked through the barrel storage room then the underground cellars where the barrels are eventually moved to. There we saw the Baroness's private cellar. The chateau puts three bottles of each vintage into storage in the cellar; the bottles are never touched so it is basically a museum. I paid 23 Euros for a tasting of barrel samples of 2005 Chateau d'Armailhac, Chateau Clerc Milon and the grands vin Chateau Mouton Rothschild. I took public transport to the chateau from Bordeaux due to the increase in police breathalysing people. It was pretty simple - a direct bus from Bordeaux which stops about a 5 minute walk from the tasting room. There are some small groups of vines around the chai so it's possible to examine what each variety looks like. I purchased a poster with all the labels on it along with a copy of the book "Mouton Rothschild L'Art et L'Etiquette paintings up to 1995". The book contains some extra loose leaf pages for future labels later than 1995. It was produced for the art exhibition in Waddesdon manor in Buckinghamshire, UK held from 31st march until 16 October 1995. The book contains a picture and description of each painting used for the labels and tasting notes for each vintage of the grands vin up to 1993. I also browsed around the superb wine museum which contained artifacts related to wine.

TN : La Grille, The Classic Loire, Chinon, 2005, Baptiste de Theil

This is 100% Cabernet Franc. 3 weeks fermentation and skin maceration at 25 degrees. A small proportion was stored for a short time in oak foudres.

Aroma : Dark dusty fruits

Colour : Dark plum

Taste : Dust tannic finish, red & blackurrant fruits

Alcohol : 14.5%

Mark : B-

Website : Oenoforos

Grape Growing in The Cotswolds

The Cotswolds has the potential to become a region for grape growing. So says Richard Selley, the man who advised English wine company Denbies where to build.

Richard, who is Professor of Geology and a senior research fellow at Imperial College, London, explained that the Cotswolds are made of limestone. Much of this limestone has got good porosity and permeability, he told the UK Wine Show, adding, ‘Where you’ve got south-facing slopes – in other words, the back slope rather than the escarpment of the Cotswolds – you can grow perfectly good wines there indeed.’

Although a few people are planting in the region, Richard said, ‘It’s not become one of the prime areas, like the Thames Valley and the Weald, because people haven’t got around to it yet.’

Website : UK Wine Show
Website : The Winelands of Britain

TN : Weinberg Riesling Mosel 2006

100% Riesling Qualitaetswein from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Bottled for Enosvezia AB, Stockholm.

Colour : Very pale yellow

Aroma : Spice, honey, fruity

Taste : Slightly sweet chunky seville orange marmelade

Alcohol : 8.5%

Mark : C

Website : Enosvezia AB

TN : Azienda Agricola Valle Reale, Vigne Nuove Cerasuolo, Montepulciano d'abruzzo vendemmia 2006 Rose

This had a bright mauve synthetic cork. This Rose wine is made from Montepulciano grapes. The grapes were pressed and the must, including skins, was macerated for 36 hours. The juice was then separated and fermented at 16-18 degrees for 40 days in steel tanks.

The soil is characterized by an important presence of small and medium sized pebbles which enable a quick drainage of meteoritic water. The climate is windy and with important temperature ranges between day and night. These pedo-climatic features are particularly favourable to the attainment of very perfumed rosé wines. The temperature ranges and the constant ventilation are important elements in order to achieve perfumes and acidic freshness, which, in a rosé wine, represent the main structure.

In the vineyard, the training method used is called low-spurred cordon and is characterised by a high density of plants, 6700, per hectare. The average age of the vines is 4-5 years. The low yield per plant, 13 tons per hectare, typical for this trellis system, ensures the attainment of quality, in particular in a mountainous area where the ripening process is slow, lasting almost till the end of autumn.

The harvest was between 10th and 20th of October 2005.

Colour : Bright cherry / strawberry

Aroma : Strawberry, cherry, pear drops

Taste : Red fruits, cherry, dry

Alcohol : 13.4%

Mark : C

Website : http://www.vallereale.it

TN : Esprit du Silene, Rose, Coteaux du Languedoc, 2006, Skalli

A blend of Grenache and Syrah which is matured in stainless steel vats. On the label it is written "Legend has it that the Silenus (tutor of Dionysius the Greek god of wine and the Grape) has ever since watched over this wine".

The Silène des Peyrals domain in the appellation Coteaux du Languedoc of southern France owes its name to an ancient clay seal found there, bearing the head of Silenus, Dionysus's old schoolmaster. Dionysus was the Greek god of wine and wine festivities. After over 25 years of experience in the Languedoc vineyards, the Skalli family chose in 2000 to grow an exceptional wine on the domain.

The domain's location is set in a typical Mediterranean scrubland known as "garrigue", it is perched two hundred meters above the Thau lake, overlooking the Herault valley. Exposure to steady breezes brings plenty of light and sun to the grapes. The soil is gravelly, sandstone soil, deep and rich in minerals. The vineyard covers roughly 50 acres and is surrounded by olive trees, umbrella pine and holm oak.

Colour : Pale red

Aroma : Fresh red berries, strawberries

Taste : Clean fresh berries, dry

Alcohol : 12.5%

Mark : C

Website : http://vinsfamilleskalli.com
Website : Domaine du Silene des Peyrals

TN : Riesling Kabinett, 2005, QmP, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Wingut Wwe Dr H Thanisch, Erben Mueller Burggraef, Bernkastel, Germany

Colour : Pale yellow/lemon

Aroma : Honey, green apple

Taste : Honey, pears, lime, spice, spritzy minerally very long finish

Alcohol : 9%

Mark : B

Website : http://www.dr-thanisch.de/

TN : Jacob's Creek Shiraz Rose Vintage 2006, South Eastern Australia

This wine was sealed with a screwcap.

Colour : Pale Strawberry

Aroma : Sweet strawberries & cream

Taste : Dry, red fruits, faint strawberry, spice

Alcohol : 12.5%

Mark : C+

Website : http://www.jacobscreek.com

TN : 2005 Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa, Yalumba, Australia

Made from 70-year old gnarled bush vines. Harvested April & May 2005. Aged in older French hogsheads. Label states that this wine can be cellared until 2011.

Aroma : Alcohol, stewed red fruits, cloves

Colour : Bright red/damson

Taste : Spicy berries, long very spicy finish

Alcohol : 14.5%

Mark : C

Website : http://www.yalumba.com

TN : Rene Barbier, Spanish Rose Wine, Bag-in-Box, 3 Litres

The text on the box states that this was packaged on January 22 2007 so one would hope that this is vintage 2006 and it tastes fresh enough to be. This is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Carinena.

Léon Barbier came to Catalonia over a century ago. As the son of vineyard proprietors in the Avignon region, Barbier applied his knowledge of the French tradition of treating grapes to Catalonia's climate and soil. All the grapes used for the wine are picked by hand during September and October in the D.O. Penedès vineyards. They are transported in small boxes so that the grapes are not damaged. The grapes are destemmed, crushed and transferred to big vats. Sulphur dioxide is added as an antiseptic and antioxidant. Maceration also takes place, but for a short time. The aim is to obtain a fresh and young wine with a pink colour. Yeast is added and the alcoholic fermentation starts. Carbon dioxide and heat are produced and the blend must be kept at a controlled level of 14 to 18ºC.

Colour : Pale red, strawberry, copperish hints

Aroma : Hints of strawberries but not much on the nose

Taste : Clean red fruits, dry

Alcohol : 12%

Mark : C++

Website : http://www.renebarbier.com/

England : An Official Wine Producing Country By 2010

By 2010, England will become an official wine producing nation. This is according to Mike Roberts, owner of Ridgeview Wine Estate and the Chairman of the English Wine Producers. English Wine producers have made a representation to the House of Lords in support of scrapping EU regulations on vine planting as it is restrictions could hamper future growth of the UK wine industry. Currently, people are planting vines like mad in England. Current EU regulations don't apply to countries making less than 3,000,000 bottles but is forecast that by 2010 this limit will be exceeded. Coincidently, the current EU regulations are due to be reviewed during 2010. The no-planting policy is to help countries, such as France, where lots of unwanted cheap wines are produced without a market for them. This is a completely different situation to what is seen in the UK.

Website : Thirty-Fifty News
Website : English Wine Producers

TN : Chateau Moulin de Cassy 2004, Medoc, France

Surface area :	11 hectares
Yield :	55 hectolitres / hectare.
Production :	50 000 bottles
Soil type :	Clay and limestone.
Pruning method :	Double guyot
Grapes varieties :	50 % cabernet sauvignon - 50 % merlot
Average vine age :	25 years
Vine density :	6500 plants / hectare
Vinification time :	3 to 4 weeks, depending on the vintage
Vinification :	Little volumed vats
Ageing :	For a minimum of 12 months in oak barrels, including 20% new oak
Bottling :	Light filtering before bottling 18 months after the grape harvest
Owners :	SCEA Pierre et Olivier COMPAGNET.
Consulting Oenologist :	Antoine Medeville

Colour : Light ruby

Aroma : Raspberrys, oak

Taste : Thin, oaky, tannic finish, good plummy fruit at first

Alcohol : 13.5%

Mark : C

Website : http://www.compagnetvins.com/chateau-moulin-de-cassy/en/default.aspx

TN : Ernest & Julio Gallo, Sonoma County, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon

Aroma : Oak, Blacurrant Cassis

Colour : Dark Cassis, some sediment

Taste : Some oak, intense cassis, vanilla, fine tanins

Alcohol : 14%

Mark : A

Website : http://www.gallo.com

Terroirs & Signatures de Bourgogne, 28th March 2007

I attended the Terriors & Signatures de Bourgogne tasting yesterday, held at Operaterrassen, Stockholm, during the Muskänkarna dedicated session between 18:00 and 19:30. There were 23 producers at the tasting.

Highlights for me were Maison Thomas Moillard who had some nice drinkable Pinot Noirs, especially the Gevrey-Chambertin, la Croix des Champs, 2004 which I could have happily drunk then. I was told that they are gradually converting over to organic growing, including making viticultural decisions according to the phases of the moon. In addition, I found out that a lot of their very old 90 year old vines have recently been replanted and that the new vines's roots follow the same path as the ripped out vines which was something I didn't know before.

Other wines I enjoyed were Bouchard Aines & Fils Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, 2004, Domaine Parent Beaune 1er Cru Les Epenottes 2003, Domaine AF Gros Chambolle-Musigny 2004, Domaine Michel Prunier et Fille Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2004 and the Chateau de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuisse Vielles Vigne 2005.

Almost all of the wines on show need some age to show their best, to allow the new oak to integrate, and the tannins to soften.

Website : http://www.franskaviner.com

TN : Chamine 2005, Cortes de Cima, Vinho Regional Alentejano , Portugal

This is a blend of Aragonez (Tempranillo) 50%, Syrah 41%, Trincadeira 5 %, and Touriga Nacional 4 %. The total acids are 5.0, final pH is 3.82 and the residual sugar is 2.6. It was bottled on the family estate in May 2006. The total production was 641,000 75cl bottles and 49,000 37cl bottles. There was no aging in barrels and the wine was released in July 2006.

In the Alentejo, rainfall since October 2004 was the lowest for more than a century, recorded at 219 mm, down from our annual average of 600 mm. The winter was not only dry but cold, with morning frost and temperatures as low as -5 °. Not surprisingly, bud break was delayed by a fortnight and the growing season was shorter than usual. The ‘ideal’ September harvest weather, brought along cooler nights and warm, sunny, breezy weather during the days, just was what was needed for the phenolic ripening of the grapes, to preserve some good fruit acid and flavor.

The fruit from local Portuguese varieties was handpicked at optimum maturity. It was fermented without stems at controlled temperature with frequent delestage (rack-and-return). This wine was lightly filtered and bottled early to maintain clean, youthful, ripe fruit flavours.

It received 87 points from Wine Spectator and 84 points from Robert Parker.

The grapegrower and head winemaker at Cortes de Cima is Hans Kristian Jorgensen who is Danish-born.

Colour : Plum red

Taste : Savoury red berries, slightly tannic, dry finish

Alcohol : 14%

Mark : C+

Website : http://www.cortesdecima.pt

TN : Riesling Trocken, Haardter Buergergarten Kabinett, 2005, Weingut Mueller-Catoir, Pfalz, Germany

The oldest record of winegrowing on the property dates back to 1744. The winery estate is in the village of Haardt, a part of Neustadt situated a little above the main town and lying at the foot of the Haardt hills, with an extensive view across the Rhine plain. The present owner is Jakob Heinrich Catoir. Junior: Philipp David Catoir. The estate has been owned by the same family since 1744, now in the 9th generation. For almost 100 years, the winery was run by women (great-grandmother, grandmother and mother of the present owner), whose influence has lent the property the distinctive note it has today. Martin Franzen, a viticultural engineer, comes from the Moselle region of Germany and learned wine-making under more difficult conditions. He made his name as the head of operations at Schlossgut Diel on the Nahe river and Gut Nägelsförst in Baden. As the rising star in the international wine world, he has now taken on the legendary position of estate manager with Müller-Catoir.

Colour : Pale yellow / lemon

Aroma : Grapey, lemony

Taste : Minerally, fruity, lemony, spitzy clean long finish

Alcohol : 13%

Mark : B

Website : http://www.mueller-catoir.de

Wines from Austria Tasting, March 26th 2007

I went to the Wines from Austria Trade tasting yesterday at Operakällaren in Stockholm. There were over 60 wineries participating. I didn't take much in way of tasting notes but recollect a few items of interest.

The Freie Weingärtner cooperative, based in Wachau, had some interesting wines to taste. I gave them all a B except for the 1981 Riesling Domaine Wachau which as not to my taste. I like more residual sugar in my aged Rieslings. However, it was showing classic petrol notes and mature characters. It was also bottled in a Burgundy-shaped bottle as the classic Germanic flute bottle was not yet used.

Weingut Nastl was present seeking an importer for Sweden. However, there are not a new winery and have been in business for over 300 years. Highlights for me were the Gruner Veltliner Kittmannsberg, B+, and the Eiswein which had an extraordinary long finish and I gave it an A.

Weingut Sepp Moser had a nice showing of wines. I gave them all a B though I didn't taste the "stickies".

The wines from Josef Umathum were very good. All had classic Pinot Noir characters, stewed fruit aromas, even though only one of the wines was actually Pinot Noir; the others were varieties such as Blaufrankisch or St Laurent. The Umathum range need a good 10 years of aging, lots of well-integrated tannins, to be at their best. I was told that in Austria these wines would typically be drunk much earlier though.

Website : http://www.winesfromaustria.com/eindex.php

TN Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Concha y Toro, Chile

"More than 100 years ago Don Melchor de Concha y Toro reserved for himself an exclusive batch of the best wines he produced. And, to keep strangers away from his private reserve, he spread the rumour that the devil lived in that place. Hence the name : Casillero del Diablo or Cellar of the Devil."

Aroma : Blackcurrants, Green vegetables boiling

Taste : Blackcurrant, black coffee

Colour : Dark blackcurrant / Cherry

Alcohol : 13.5%

Mark : C

Website : http://www.casillerodeldiablo.com/

Vinunic

I received the April newsletter from the Swedish wine importer Vinunic yesterday entitled våra viner. Vinunic is around 13 years old and has some great top-of-the-line names that it imports such as Guigal, Catena, DRC, Zind-Humbrecht, Louis Jadot, Gaja, Sassicaia, Vergelegen, Shafer vineyards etc.

Good value, low-price, wines that I will look out for from Vinunic in April include Pewsey Vale Riesling 2006 and Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache 2005

On their website is a nice feature where you can input details about the wine you wish to drink and you receive a recommendation as to which Riedel glass will bring out the best in your wine.

There is an associated wine club Club VinUnic which costs 250Kr to join. According to the blurb you receive discounts on wine and invitations to wine tastings and trips. You also get two Riedel Vinum Bordeaux glasses. This looks a great bargain since the retail price of these glasses is 590Kr. According to the membership form, the fee is a one-off payment and future years' membership is free.

Website : http://www.vinunic.se

TN : 2005 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin, Lodi, California

This wine is made from 35 to 80-year old head-pruned vines. American, French and Hungarian oak are used in the making of this wine. This wine is hand-harvested. At the winery they are gently pressed immediately after harvesting. After 7-9 days fermentation, the wine was racked to concentrate the abundant fruit flavors and to add complexity. The "make-up" is 77% Zinfandel and 23% Petite Sirah. Residual sugar is 0.04g per 100mL. Total acid is 0.61g per 100mL. pH is 3.64.

Lodi is the "zin-famous" appellation due to its ideal climate – long, warm summer days and cooling night-time breezes – and its soil – rich, well-draining loam. These two factors provide a combination that is perfectly suited for growing Zinfandel. Our grapes are hand-selected from some of the oldest and most respected vineyards in Lodi. Older vines produce fewer grape clusters, but the small berries yield intense, concentrated fruit flavors characteristic of great Old Vine Zinfandel.

Aroma : dark berries, raisins

Taste : Smooth tannins, warmth of alcohol, raisins, blackberries, slight spice

Colour : Dark black cherry

Alcohol : 14.5%

Mark : B-

Website : http://www.gnarlyhead.com/